Time to fire up the Grill?

Cover via Amazon

Yes, before the landslide of email arrives, all of which will be berating me for my lack of posts on this blog, let me pre-empt your fury by agreeing with you. Indeed, I have not been here for a while.

Fortunately, I am back to allocating time to write about food. This means you should (hopefully) see at least one post every other week. I mean, really, I eat every day. Why shouldn’t I write about it? I’ll try to be consistent – how about Mondays?

So Guy Fieri of Food Network fame was in town this past week. His team had surreptitiously checked out a few different places, with Guy finally deciding that Moseberth’s in Portsmouth VA would be perfect for his show, Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. A family run restaurant, in business for 71 years, Moseberth’s looks to be the place for fried chicken, pulled pork barbeque and collard greens.

With this visit making the local news yesterday, I am sure Mr. Moseberth and his crew will have already seen an increase in business today. Once the episode airs, it could be a mad house rush!

I will make a point to find time to take one of my sous chefs (and maybe his girlfriend, too, if she wants to come) to visit this establishment. I know it is not on the Eastern Shore, but good food is worth a $17 bridge toll.

In the meantime, tautog season is about to end for a while, as flounder action is starting to pick up. That means three things: I need to find time to go fishing, I need to clean up the outdoor grill, and maybe it’s time to make a return trip to the Chesapeake Grill on the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel.

I think this summer will include a great culinary adventure and I can’t wait to share it with you – my three faithful readers! Just joking…I know there are five of you.

So raise a glass to Mr. Flounder – may he be of legal size and come with a side of tartar sauce!

Rayfield’s Pharmacy & Soda Fountain!

Rayfield's Pharmacy in Cape Charles, VA. Notice the fish with Christmas spirit!

While many people enjoy visiting a ski resort, theme park or just spending a week on a cruise ship sailing to warm water islands to spend all of their cash in trinket shops and on dolphin tours, some of us still thrill at finding that off-the-beaten-path place, full of local character and perhaps a bit of history. Today we happened to be in Cape Charles, Virginia, an old railroad town that is experiencing a slow, but steady resurgence in population and vitality. Located about ten miles north of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, in lower Northampton County, train enthusiasts will know of Cape Charles as a key location for the old Eastern Shore Railroad, but that is the subject of a different blog. Quite interesting, look it up on the Internet sometime.

But eventually you will get hungry, and when you do, stop by Rayfield’s Pharmacy located at 2 Fig Street. It is off to your left as you come into town, just past the Cape Charles Museum.

Rayfield’s Pharmacy, owned and operated by pharmacist Berkley Rayfield with the help of family and friends, is a place to pick up your allergy medicine or what-not, as well as a little convenience store with everything from soap to tourist items such as postcards and t-shirts. We, however, like Rayfield’s for something else – the diner and soda fountain!

You won’t find Kobe beef here, and none of the entrees come with decorative truffle sauce carefully framing the food by way of the dreaded “spoon push” taught in the finest culinary schools. What you will find is good food, prepared fresh when possible, in a nice family atmosphere.

The ambiance is almost 1950’s Americana. There is a counter, complete with stools on chrome pedestals, facing the grill so you can almost reach out and touch the person cooking your meal. Across the tile floor is a row of booths; in between are a few tables that can be moved for the occasional sock hop. I would think that this does not happen anymore, but the mirrored disco ball hanging from the ceiling and the newer Wurlitzer jukebox in the corner say otherwise?

Breakfast is served until 10:30 AM, lunch and dinner afterward. We were there for lunch so I had the cheeseburger platter with fries. My teenager ordered the grilled cheese sandwich and my wife had the egg salad sandwich. The food was excellent, the service prompt and friendly, three attributes that you do not find in most chain restaurants or fast-food joints.

I am sure you have your own criteria for what makes for a good diner or cafe. Here are some of the benchmarks at Rayfield’s that I appreciated:
– hot coffee…plenty of offers for a “warm-up” too.
– no pre-formed, frozen burger patties. Mine was hand made, probably a third of a pound.
– “crinkle” style french fries.
– Heinz Ketchup AND mustard on each table. No cheap imitations.
– a real soda fountain for ice cream treats and malt and shakes!
and lastly…
– a mounted, 76 pound Channel Bass overlooking the entire place.

Like I said, ambiance as can only be found on the Eastern Shore of Virginia!

If you are in the area, you gotta stop by Rayfield’s Pharmacy in Cape Charles, Virginia for a bite to eat. It’s probably a rule. If it isn’t, it should be!

Chesapeake Bay Flounder…that Bites Back!

Horseradish-encrusted Flounder with stir-fried Vegetables

It’s the middle of Summer here on the East Coast of Virginia and that means one thing: the flounder are getting bigger! Almost iconic in status in these parts, flounder (sometimes referred to as “door mats”) are right up there with striped bass and bluefin tuna as a prized catch. If you have a boat, great. If not, do not despair – go to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, pay the $12 toll and stop at the South Island, where you will find the Seagull Pier, a great fishing pier that extends out into the middle of the Chesapeake Bay. $12 a bit much for a toll? Try paying for a seat on a charter boat. Head boats go for $40 to start and often go higher. Heck, I spend more than $12 when I go to Starbucks!

So luck was with you and you have landed a flounder big enough to keep. What to do? Why, let’s fire up the oven and have us some…

Horseradish-encrusted Flounder

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees F.

Flounder fillets (let’s assume you have 4 medium-sized fillets)
2 cups of plain bread crumbs
8 oz horseradish sauce (I use Boar’s Head)

First check the fillets for errant pin bones. You don’t want those pesky little bones, pull them out with a tweezer or a pair of pliers.

Next, slather the fillets in horseradish sauce. Then dredge them in bread crumbs. Repeat the process one more time.

Place the coated fillets in a greased. glass baking dish.

Bake for 12 minutes. Check for doneness by using a fork. If the fillet flakes easily, it is done. If it looks really, really moist on the inside, let it cook a few minutes more – it won’t hurt since the breading will keep the fish nice and tender.

When done – eat!

The horseradish taste comes through well, but is not overpowering. This is a nice alternative to the usual fried flounder or flounder stuffed with crab filing. Be adventurous. Live a little!

Now – for those of you who always go one step further, try this with Wasabi mixed in the horseradish. Add a little shredded Parmesan cheese to the bread crumbs. Cook the same way. Heck, do one fillet this way and put it in the same baking dish as the original flounder. Call it Flounder Roulette!

Try it – goes well with a nice glass of Fish Eye Merlot.

Ahhhh….

The Chesapeake Grill is no fish story….

The Flounder Sandwich at the Chesapeake Grill

Driving across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel from Virginia Beach to the Eastern Shore is normally about 18 miles of dodging wayward seagulls and New Englanders speeding their way to or from the Outer Banks of North Carolina. People who like to fish also know that the Seagull Pier, located on the first island (the South Island,) is a great place to hook monster flounder. Now there is a new reason for everyone to stop – The Chesapeake Grill.

Totally refurbished, the mini-rest stop on the world famous bridge is a combination of a rest stop, scenic overlook, snack bar, gift shop, fishing pier, and…fine dining?

Okay, the Chesapeake Grill is not exactly fine dining. There are no white tablecloths. I did not see a wine list. Zagat has not visited. If, however, you are in the neighborhood, do yourself a favor and stop by for a bite to eat. Open from 6 AM to 10 PM, the C.G. offers awesome food for reasonable prices.

Grilled Vegetable Sandwich at The Chesapeake Grill on the CBBT

My wife had the grilled vegetable sandwich. Presented on grilled focaccia, the sandwich had sauteed yellow squash, zucchini, spinach, tomato, red onion, mushroom, and artichoke heart (just a wee bit.) The chef used an aioli that was seasoned with a hint of sun dried tomatoes, along with a nice blend of spices. As a vegetarian, my wife was thrilled that someone put that much thought into a dish for those who do not choose seared animal flesh for meals. It was a hit!

I always try the seafood when dining over the water, literally. The flounder sandwich was a total surprise….in a good way. Two HUGE flounder fillets, slathered in a beer batter and then deep fried, covered the bun and then some. I had the option of sides: fries, cole slaw, potato salad or pasta salad. The pasta salad that I chose did not come out of a tub. It was put together by caring hands: penne, red and yellow bell pepper, chopped green onion, feta cheese, tomato, capers and seasonings. Again, a very nice surprise.

The price? $7 for the grilled veggie sandwich and $11 for the flounder. Looking at the menu, it seems that prices range from $5 to $14 or so.

Everything that came out of the kitchen had presentation that would rival the best of restaurants.

The fine details: sandwiches and salads for lunch / full menu for dinner. We already plan to go back for dinner. You just can’t beat the view, either. BONUS: the food is procured from local sources whenever possible.

Walking in the door you will be confused. There is a sign that helps, but let me elaborate: gift shop to the right, to-go snacks to the left. For table service, go straight ahead and wait at the entrance to the dining area. A server will seat you.

Is it worth the $12 toll to cross the bridge, maybe or maybe not. That’s up to you, but if you are visiting the Eastern Shore, the Chesapeake Grill is a GREAT PLACE to start your culinary adventure. Try it and let me know what you think.

Next week…how “corny” can you get?

Mini Crab Cakes on the Shore

For lunch today, my wife and I went to the Coach House Tavern, located in the clubhouse at the Bay Creek Resort and Club in Cape Charles, Virginia. For those not familiar with the area, Cape Charles is an old railroad town on the southern part of the Delmarva Peninsula, known as the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

If you don’t live there (on the Shore) you either have to take 13 south from Maryland or the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel north from Virginia Beach. If you take the CBBT, make sure you have an “Easy Pass” or 12 dollars for the toll. If you go back within 24 hours, it’s only 5 bucks for the return. A bit pricey for a lunch trip, so I always suggest that people make a weekend trip out of it. Chincoteague is right up the road, it is definitely worth a visit.

So if you find yourself in Cape Charles, bring your golf clubs because there are two golf courses at Bay Creek, one designed by Jack and one by Arnold. While open to the public, the resort is gated, but all you have to do is tell security that you are there for a round of golf…or lunch at the Coach House Tavern!

Here is a hidden gem of a pub.

Mostly American pub fare, there seems to be something for everyone. Being located right off the Chesapeake Bay, the seafood is fresh caught and cooked superbly. My wife had the flounder. I have had it before and will say that the lightly seasoned breading is just awesome. The best flounder I have ever had. Period.

I ordered the mini crab cakes. They came in a basket (pub fare, remember?) with fries and homemade cole slaw. Light and fluffy, these bite-sized crab cakes were magnificent. The tarter sauce was seasoned with Old Bay perhaps? A perfect complement to the cakes.

Service was attentive yet not overbearing. The staff was friendly, welcoming and knowledgeable. It did not matter to anyone that we were obviously not golfers. The Coach House Tavern is on my list of “Must Visit” places when we have out-of-town friends and relatives stop by for a visit.

While I understand the greens fees are higher than most for the area, the prices at the Coach House Tavern are very reasonable, with most main dishes priced between $8 – 15.

The Coach House Tavern – a nice way to start or finish a weekend venture to the Eastern Shore of Virginia!

The problem is not with your set…

If all had gone according to plan, you would be seeing a photo of coriander basil spiced kielbasa, served with garlic oven-roasted potatoes and peas, corn and carrots that were sautéed in butter. The perfect comfort food for a night like tonight, where the temperature has dropped into the low 30’s (F) and the wind is kickin’ strong enough that crossing the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel would be an experience you don’t want to remember. If only the camera had worked…

So instead, let me talk about our department holiday dinner a few night’s ago.  It was an awesome time at a well-kept secret in Norfolk, Virginia (maybe I shouldn’t mention it, then?)  Anyhow, if you find yourself in the Ghent area of Norfolk, specifically on Colley Avenue, check out Enrico’s.  It’s a family owned/operated Greek and Italian restaurant that looks kinda iffy on the outside but well worth the time to go inside.

The interior reminded one of our party of a classic bar from the thirties. Dark, rich tones; a certain earthiness. We had the back area to ourselves, cordoned off by a semi-transparent curtain that kept us separated yet still connected to the rest of the cafe. It was a nice touch that owner’s John and Maggie Tsouris decorated the elevated dining area with framed prints of Virginia Opera posters.

The menu had a little bit of Greece and a little bit more of Italy, all cooked with home recipes that I would guess have been in the Tsouris family for years. With 15 of us, we probably ordered over half the menu, including four fabulous chef’s specials.  First, however, we started our culinary adventure with appetizers. The hummas with pita and the dolmades were excellent. To be fair, not all of my dinner companions were “into” Greek food but in the end there were no appetizers left on the plates.  That should say something!

For an entree, three of us had the Souvlaki, tender pork loin grilled to medium on skewers, set on rice pilaf, surrounded by feta cheese and Greek olives. An eerie quiet descended upon our end of the table as we three lucky diners squelched our conversation in order to scarf the perfectly cooked pork. I don’t recall hearing much being said by the other dozen of us, either, so the grilled shrimp limone and all his friends must have been equally as astounding.

While not really a wine aficionado, I will say that Enrico’s wine list was just as popular as the menu. There were the obligatory bottles of Merlot (Aussie wine – Penfold as I recall) and Cabernet (Chilean.) The surprise hit, however was a Greek wine from John’s family hometown in Greece. A nice red wine, Amplelou gris red was the favorite of the night. We also noticed that, for whatever reason, there were no French wines on the list. Hmmm…no one complained.

Now, for those of you who have worked in the food service arena, you will know that no matter how good the food, the experience can be negated by poor service. Fortunately, our server matched the quality of the menu. She handled our party of 15 with a calm yet humorous demeanor. She not only knew the basic components of the four specials, she also knew how they were seasoned and cooked. This was not a $2.13 an hour “associate” who gets graded on how much flair they have pinned to their ballcap; no, our server was what we all hope for when we go out to spend our hard-earned pennies on dinner: pleasant, helpful and accurate. I heard numerous kudos being given by my companions, and I would bet those comments were not just said, they were meant.

John and Maggie Tsouris have a hit on their hands. Not too expensive, make Enrico’s Ristorante a stop on your next culinary excursion. Don’t forget to save room for dessert.  We were too full to have it!

Happy eating!  Oh yes, anyone have a good camera that needs a good home???